How to Make a Tablet Holder at Home (3 Builds: Quick, Adjustable, Wall-Mount)
You’ll build a sturdy tablet holder from scrap wood or hardwood in ~30–90 minutes. Pick Build #1 (10-minute wedge slot), Build #2 (adjustable angles with stops), or Build #3 (sleek wall-mount for kitchen/desk). We include ergonomic angle targets (20–50°), slot widths for bare tablets vs cases, anti-tip geometry, speaker/camera clearance, charging pass-through, and kid-safe finishing (water-resistant for kitchens).
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Table of Contents
Tools & Materials
Tools (minimum): hand saw or circular/table saw, drill/driver, 3–6 mm & 10–12 mm bits, sandpaper (120/180/220), square, pencil, clamps.
See recommended saw: Makita XSS02 review
Nice-to-have: table saw with blade tilt, router (round-over), Forstner bits, keyhole bit (for wall mount), dowel jig.
Material options (pick one):
- Hardwood (maple, oak, walnut) 18–20 mm (3/4″) thick
- Plywood (birch) 12–18 mm (1/2″–3/4″)
- Extras: self-adhesive rubber feet, thin cork/felt, 6–8 mm dowel or small piano hinge, neodymium magnet (optional), wood glue, finish.
Recommended Tools
Sizing: Fit Any 7–13″ Tablet
Most tablets fall into 7–8″, 9–11″, and 12–13″ classes. Design once, then scale width and slot.
Key dimensions to decide before cutting
- Tablet thickness: modern iPads are ~5.1–5.3 mm bare; cases commonly add 3–7 mm. Plan slot width 12–14 mm with optional rubber or felt inserts for a snug, non-marring fit. (Reference: current iPad Pro dimensions.) Apple
- Slot angle (desk tilt): aim for ~35° for general use; add a second stop/slot around 45–50° for media viewing. Evidence suggests 20–50° is comfortable; 0° and 60° extremes are less preferred. PubMed
- Base depth vs. tip-resistance: keep base depth ≥ 0.6× device height (e.g., 200 mm / 8″ base for a 13″ tablet in portrait), or add a rear kickstand.
Download Free Printable Templates
Quick size table
| Tablet class | Suggested stand width | Base depth (anti-tip) | Slot width (bare/case) | Primary tilt |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 7–8″ | 140–160 mm (5½–6¼″) | 140–160 mm (5½–6¼″) | 10–12 mm / 12–14 mm | ~35° |
| 9–11″ | 180–220 mm (7–8¾″) | 160–200 mm (6¼–8″) | 10–12 mm / 12–14 mm | ~35° |
| 12–13″ | 220–260 mm (8¾–10¼″) | 200–230 mm (8–9″) | 10–12 mm / 12–14 mm | ~35° |
Tip: If you’re unsure of case thickness, cut 12 mm slot and add 2 mm rubber/felt strip on one side for grip + tolerances.
Build #1: 10-Minute Slot Stand (Beginner)
What you get: Super-fast wedge block with a clean groove. Great for desks and countertops.
Cut list (example for 9–11″ tablets):
- 1× base block 200 × 90 × 19 mm (8 × 3½ × ¾″)
Steps:
- Mark slot: centerline, 140 mm (5½″) long.
- Blade tilt: set saw blade to ~35°. This yields a device tilt near the ergonomic sweet spot.
- Cut slot: make two passes to achieve 12–14 mm slot width. Stop 10–12 mm from edges for strength.
- Add cable notch (optional): drill a 12–16 mm semicircle at the slot’s center front for charging.
- Ease edges: break sharp edges with 180/220 grit or round-over 3 mm.
- Anti-slip: stick rubber feet under the base; line the slot with thin felt.
- Finish: wipe-on poly, hard-wax oil, or water-based polyurethane (see Finishing).
Speaker/camera clearance: If your tablet’s speakers fire from the bottom edge, leave a 2–3 mm gap with felt strips on the slot faces so sound isn’t muffled.
Build #2: Adjustable-Angle Stand with Stops (Intermediate)
What you get: Two side cheeks, a backrest, and a pivoting arm with angle stops (20°, 35°, 50°). Packs flat, works for drawing or viewing.
Cut list (18 mm / ¾″ stock):
- 2× side cheeks 200 × 140 × 18 mm (8 × 5½ × ¾″)
- 1× base 200 × 60 × 18 mm (8 × 2⅜ × ¾″)
- 1× backrest 200 × 90 × 18 mm with 12–14 mm top slot @ 35°
- 1× kickstand arm 180 × 25 × 18 mm
- 1× 6–8 mm dowel (pivot pin)
Build overview:
- Glue/screw base between cheeks (flush at front).
- Cut backrest slot at 35° (primary) and a second kerf at 50° near it for a steeper option.
- Drill pivot near back bottom corner of cheeks; mount kickstand arm on dowel.
- Angle stops: drill shallow Forstner recesses (or cut notches) at positions that lock the arm at ~20°, 35°, 50° tablet tilt (aligns with comfort range). PubMed
- Cable channel: route a groove under the backrest for charging cables.
- Pads: add cork/rubber feet.
- Finish and test with/without case; tune with felt shims.
Why angles matter: Neck flexion decreases as device tilt rises from flat up to mid-angles; users often prefer ≈34° and avoid extremes. Designing multiple stops in 20–50° keeps most users comfortable.
Build #3: Low-Profile Wall-Mounted Holder (Kitchen/Desk)
What you get: A tidy “shelf-lip” that cradles the tablet for recipes or video calls, with keyhole hangers and a cable pass-through.
Cut list (18 mm / ¾″ stock):
- 1× backplate 240 × 160 × 18 mm (9½ × 6¼ × ¾″)
- 1× lip/rail 240 × 18 × 18 mm (9½ × ¾ × ¾″) — chamfer top edge
- 1× spacer 240 × 10 × 10 mm (optional to increase tilt)
Steps
- Attach lip flush with bottom of backplate (glue + brads).
- Add spacer behind upper backplate to create ~10–15° back lean (tablet ends up around 35–40° viewing).
- Cable pass-through: drill 16–20 mm hole centered near the lip.
- Keyhole slots: cut 2 keyholes on the back; align with wall anchors.
- Pads: felt along lip to avoid scuffs; add a 2–3 mm side notch if your camera sits low.
- Mount level on wall studs or with proper anchors.
Kitchen tip: Choose a water-resistant finish so you can wipe splashes. See Finishing.
Upgrades & Options
- Case-friendly slot: Start at 12 mm, add thin felt/rubber on one wall for gentle compression (snug fit across tablets ±2–3 mm).
- One-hand pickup notch: A small front finger scoop helps lift the tablet without tipping the stand.
- Speaker reflectors: A tiny 45° chamfer inside the slot can redirect sound forward.
- Magnetic parking (Build #2): embed a small magnet in the arm tip and a screw cup in the cheek to hold the arm during transport.
- Fold-flat hinge: Replace the dowel with a piano hinge for ultra-flat storage.
- Non-wood alternatives: PVC elbows, cardboard laminate, or 3D-printed kickstand work—great for prototyping.
Finishing & Safety
- Finishes: For desks, wipe-on poly or hard-wax oil. For kitchens/kids, pick a water-resistant, low-VOC finish after the manufacturer’s cure time.
- Edges: Round all edges to R3–R6 mm (⅛–¼″) for comfort and child safety.
- Ergonomics: Aim for device tilt 20–50°, and position so your gaze is ~30° down from eye level; don’t set screens too close (<250 mm). PubMed+1
- Workshop safety: Eye/ear protection, dust control, push sticks for table saws.
Troubleshooting & Common Mistakes
- Stand tips forward → Increase base depth, add rear kickstand, or reduce tilt on heavy 12–13″ devices.
- Slot too loose → Add felt/rubber liners; cut a new slot to 11–12 mm and shim to taste.
- Blocks speakers/camera → Cut relief notches or shift slot off-center.
- Wobbly on glass → Add rubber feet or a full-sheet cork pad.
- Tablet in case won’t fit → Widen slot or run felt only on one side to preserve width.
Cost, Time & Skill Level
- Build #1: $0–$5 (scrap wood), ~10–20 min, Beginner
- Build #2: $5–$15 (hardware/finish), ~60–90 min, Intermediate
- Build #3: $5–$12, ~45–60 min, Beginner+
FAQ
What is the best angle for a tablet stand?
Most people prefer ~20–50° tilt; studies show ~34° is commonly favored, while 0° and 60° tend to be least preferred. Offer at least two angles (e.g., 35° and 50°).
How wide should I make the slot?
For modern tablets, 12–14 mm fits most with/without thin cases. Bare iPad Pros are ~5.1–5.3 mm thick; cases add 3–7 mm. Line with felt for a secure, rattle-free fit.
How do I stop the stand from tipping?
Make the base depth at least 0.6× device height or add a rear kickstand. For 13″ tablets in portrait, aim for ~200 mm (8″) base depth.
Will this tablet stand muffle speakers?
Not if you leave a small air gap (felt shims) and avoid covering speaker ports. Add tiny reflector chamfers to direct sound forward.
Which woods work best for tablet stand?
Hardwoods (maple, oak, walnut) look premium and resist dents. Birch ply is stable and economical. Avoid soft, splinter-prone stock for narrow slots.
Can I make a tablet stand without power tools?
Yes—use a handsaw + chisel for the slot, a hand drill for the cable notch, and sand by hand. It’s slower but works.
Conclusion
Making a tablet holder at home is a fast, low-cost win that scales with your tools and needs. Whether you went with the 10-minute slot stand, the adjustable multi-angle build, or the sleek wall-mount, you now have a stand that actually fits your device, case, and space. Stick to the fundamentals—slot width ~12–14 mm, comfortable tilt in the 20–50° range, solid anti-tip base depth, and a wipe-friendly finish—and you’ll avoid the pitfalls most store-bought stands still get wrong. Add felt or rubber where it touches the tablet, keep speaker/camera paths clear, and you’ll end up with a holder that’s stable, ergonomic, and nice enough to live on your desk or in the kitchen.
If you’re gifting or selling these, batch a few at once: rip stock to width, cut all slots, then sand and finish in one run. Small upgrades—cable pass-throughs, angle stops, cork feet, and a tidy round-over—elevate the result without adding much time.
Best Wishes,
Alexander.
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