How to Make Professional Wood Picture Frames at Home (Step-by-Step)
Picture frames are a reliable DIY woodworking project that every crafter can master. They combine practical use (displaying photos and art) with sentimental value (preserving memories) and suit almost any decor style.
See also: 38 High Demand Wood Crafts
In this guide you’ll learn how to make your own wooden picture frames, step by step, using basic tools and standard lumber. Treat it as your complete DIY picture frame guide, whether you’re just starting out or already selling your frames at markets and online.
When you deliver frames with tight, crisp miters, a rich smooth finish, quality glass or acrylic glazing, sturdy backing and hanging hardware, they have a gallery-quality feel at a craft-friendly price. Frames also ship and display easily (they stack flat), making them ideal for art fairs, craft markets and online sales – or as the core of a profitable handmade picture frame business.
Table of Contents
Why DIY Picture Frames Sell
Evergreen demand
Every life event (new baby, wedding, graduation, travel, new home) creates new prints and artwork to frame, so gallery-quality photo frames are always in demand.
Recognizable sizes
Buyers know standard sizes like 4×6, 5×7 and 8×10 by heart. These match common photo print dimensions, making frames easy to understand and easy to sell.
DIY-friendly build
This project is beginner-friendly. You can build classic frames with just one or two basic power tools and common lumber. Once your setup is dialed in, you can knock out a frame in about 1–2 hours, and much faster in batches.
Easy to batch
After your saw stops and jigs are set, you can cut and assemble dozens of frames quickly. That drives up your hourly profit without dramatically increasing your material costs.
Collaboration potential
Photographers and artists love frame makers. Bundling “print + frame” deals with a local studio, market vendor or online artist can boost your average order value and make selling handmade picture frames much easier.
Use scrap and reclaimed wood
Rustic frames made from reclaimed barn wood or offcuts have a great story (“reclaimed from a 100-year-old barn”) and often sell at a premium. Eco-friendly wood frames are especially popular right now.
Materials List (With Smart Upgrades)
Frame stock (main wood)
If you want the best wood for picture frames, reach for hardwoods:
- Premium hardwoods: 1×2 or 1×3 maple, walnut, cherry, oak, ash for a high-end feel.
- Budget/painted frames: Pine, poplar or reclaimed barn wood (the rough character looks great under paint).
Glazing and backing
- Glazing: Standard glass or acrylic sheet (cut or pre-cut for frames).
- Backer: Thin MDF, hardboard or mat board.
- Upgrade: For art-quality framing, use acid-free or foamboard backing.
Hardware and small parts
- Turn buttons or flexible tabs to secure glass and backing in the rabbet.
- Sawtooth hangers (small frames) or D-ring + wire (larger frames).
- Felt bumpers for bottom corners (protect walls and add a “premium retail” touch).
- Optional decorative metal corner brackets for an industrial look.
Joinery and reinforcement
- Strong wood glue for miters.
- Optional corner splines or keys (contrasting wood looks high-end).
- Back-driven brad nails.
- Dowels or biscuits for extra strength on big frames.
Finishes
- Oil/poly blend for a warm, natural grain pop.
- Wipe-on poly or lacquer for a clear, durable finish.
- Paint plus glaze for farmhouse style.
- Stain plus clear coat for classic walnut/oak looks.
Sizing Focus (Core Sizes to Stock)
Focus on common photo sizes:
- 4×6, 5×7, 8×10, 11×14
- Gallery pieces like 12×16 and 16×20
Standardize your frame width (around 1½″ or 40 mm) and rabbet depth so your cutting formulas and jigs work across all sizes. This makes your own internal picture frame size reference easy to follow and keeps production consistent.
Tools Needed (Beginner-Friendly Setup)
Cutting and shaping
- Miter saw with fine-tooth blade (plus stop blocks), or a simple miter box and handsaw.
- Router table or table saw with a rabbeting bit/blade.
Joinery and assembly
- Band clamp or corner clamps for glue-up.
- Optional brad nailer or stapler for speed.
- Spline jig or dowel/biscuit jig if adding reinforcement.
Surfacing and finishing
- Random orbit sander and sanding block (120–180–220 grit progression).
- Brushes, cloths or sprayer for your chosen finish.
Safety gear
- Safety glasses and hearing protection.
- Dust mask or respirator.
- Cut-resistant gloves when handling cut glass or acrylic.
Standard Picture Frame Sizes and Sizing Basics
Building frames around common sizes ensures customers instantly recognize them and know what will fit. Keep your own standard picture frame sizes chart in your notebook so you can quote inside and outside dimensions quickly at shows.
Core sizes
- 4×6, 5×7, 8×10, 11×14
These match the most common photo prints. For example, an 8×10 print generally needs an 8×10 opening, finished by a frame that ends up about 11×13 overall when using 1½″-wide molding.
Larger “anchor” sizes
- 12×16, 16×20, 20×24 for statement pieces
- Consider 18×24 and 24×36 for poster-sized prints
Measurement rules
- Rabbet opening: Cut it slightly larger (about 1–2 mm) than the artwork size so prints and mats slide in easily.
- Glass and backer: Cut to the same size as the artwork, plus that tiny clearance.
- Outside frame length:
Outside length = inside length + 2 × frame width
Example: an 8×10 photo in a 1½″-wide frame gives an outside size of about 11×13.
Metric / ISO sizes
In Europe and other markets, prints often use ISO paper sizes (A4, A3 and so on). These don’t match U.S. frame sizes exactly, but you can adapt:
- An A4 print (210 × 297 mm) usually looks good in a 16×20 frame with a mat.
- An A3 print (297 × 420 mm) can go in an 18×24 frame or similar.
Keep a size chart in your shop notes so you can quickly calculate inside/outside dimensions for each standard size when people ask for frame-building advice or custom dimensions.
Step-by-Step Build (Optimized for Batches)
The following frame making instructions are optimized for batching and consistent results. Use them as a repeatable system inside your DIY custom frame-making workflow.
Step 1 – Mill, Profile and Pre-Finish Rabbets
Mill consistent stock
Plane and rip your wood so each board has uniform thickness and width end-to-end. Even small variations show up as visible gaps in the finished frame.
Add a subtle profile
Ease the front edges with a small chamfer or round-over. This simple detail instantly upgrades the look above a plain, flat store-bought frame.
Cut a clean rabbet
Use a router or table saw with a rabbeting bit/blade. A typical rabbet is about ⅜″ wide and ¼″ deep. Test-fit pieces of your glass or acrylic, the print and mat into the rabbet and adjust until they sit flush with just a touch of clearance.
Seal the rabbet early
Brush a thin coat of shellac or clear finish inside the rabbet before assembly. This seals the raw wood so dust and fingerprints are less likely to show behind the glass later.
Batch tip
Mill long lengths of frame molding first (profile and rabbet done), then cut to final lengths in the next step. This “one-two punch” method saves a lot of time compared to finishing each frame start-to-finish individually.
Step 2 – Cut Accurate Miters and Dry-Fit
Set stop blocks
For each size (4×6, 5×7, etc.), clamp a stop block at the correct distance on your miter saw fence. Label each block so you can quickly switch between sizes.
Cut all miters
Confirm the saw is at a precise 45°. Cut each frame’s four pieces as matched pairs. Keep each frame’s sticks together to avoid mix-ups and mark them (A-A, B-B) so they go back in the proper orientation.
Dry-fit on a flat surface
Assemble the frame with no glue to check your work. Look for tight 45° joints with no gaps. Opposite sides should be equal length, and the frame should sit flat with no wobble.
Prep for reinforcement (optional)
If you plan splines or dowels, cut or mark those before gluing. It’s easier to plunge a spline jig into loose joints than into a clamped frame.
Step 3 – Glue, Reinforce and Clean Up
Glue up
Spread a thin, even layer of wood glue on each miter face. Too much glue can push joints out of square and create more squeeze-out to clean.
Clamp and square
Use a band clamp or four corner clamps to draw joints tight. Check the diagonals; they should match within about 1–2 mm to confirm the frame is square. Adjust clamps as needed.
Add reinforcement
While the glue is still workable, add splines, biscuits or dowels for extra strength and a decorative accent. Alternatively, shoot 1″ brads from the back into each corner after the glue has tacked up.
Wipe glue squeeze-out
Clean any glue drips immediately with a damp cloth. Dried glue is hard to remove and will resist stain or finish, leaving light spots.
Final sanding and finish
Once the glue is fully cured, sand the outside faces from 120 up to 220 grit, softening sharp edges slightly. Remove all dust, then apply your chosen finish (stain, paint or clear). Lightly sand between coats if needed and let the finish cure completely.
Step 4 – Install Glazing, Backer and Hardware
Build the frame “sandwich”
Lay the frame face-down. Insert the glass or acrylic panel first, then the photo or print (with mat, if used), and finally the backing board. Everything should sit flat and snug.
Secure with hardware
Install turn buttons, flexible points or similar fasteners into the rabbet to hold all layers firmly in place.
Choose hanging hardware
- Small frames (4×6, 5×7): center a sawtooth hanger on the back.
- Larger frames (8×10 and above): use two D-rings and picture wire for a secure hang.
Final touches
Add felt bumpers on the bottom corners to protect walls and give a polished feel. Optionally cover the back with kraft paper or tape for a clean gallery-style dust cover. Insert a sample photo or art print to show customers how it looks in use. Package the frame in a clear sleeve or simple box with a microfiber cloth and care card for extra perceived value.
Styling Ideas That Sell
Rustic barnwood look
Use reclaimed or live-edge boards with knots, nail holes and texture. Lightly wire-brush and finish with a matte clear coat for a true farmhouse vibe.
Minimal modern
Choose straight-line maple or ash with a thin profile (about ½″–1″ wide) and a clear or very light stain. This style fits contemporary decor and gallery walls. Pair multiple frames into ready-made gallery wall frame sets to make buying easier.
Farmhouse white or black
Paint frames white, cream or black, then distress edges so the wood peeks through. This “shabby chic” look is hugely popular in home decor.
Contrasting corner splines
Add dark wood splines (like walnut) into the miters of a light frame, or the reverse. The contrast reads as high craftsmanship and justifies a higher price.
Float frames (advanced)
Build an L-shaped inner frame that leaves a small gap between the art and the outer frame edge. This is perfect for canvases or thick art pieces.
Tip: Offer a couple of core styles (for example, rustic, modern and farmhouse) across your standard sizes. This keeps production simple while still giving customers meaningful choices and makes your handmade picture frame business look cohesive and professional.
Price and Profit: A Simple Formula
You can typically charge about €18–€45 per frame, depending on size and wood species. Use this simple formula to protect your profit:
Price ≈ (Materials cost × 2–3) + (Labor rate × build time)
Example:
An 8×10 maple frame might use about €6–€8 in wood, finish, glass and hardware.
If your target labor rate is €30/hour and each frame takes about 30 minutes in batch mode, that’s €15 in labor.
- Materials: €7 × 2.5 ≈ €17.50
- Labor: €15
- Target price: roughly €32–€35 retail
In practice, similar handmade frames sell for around €30–€45.
Profit boosters
- Bundle deals: “Any 3 small frames for €75.”
- Mat upgrades: Double mats or colored mats for an extra €5–€10.
- Personalization: Names, dates, quotes, GPS coordinates.
- Limited woods: Figured maple or exotic scraps, labeled as limited editions at 2–3× your usual price.
Where to Sell and How to Present
If you treat this guide as both a DIY custom picture frame tutorial and a mini business plan, you can turn your frames into a consistent income stream.
Craft and art fairs
- Hang large frames (11×14, 16×20) on booth walls as attention-getters.
- Display small frames (4×6, 5×7) on tables or in bins for easy browsing.
- Clearly mark size and price on tags.
- Offer “Frame Only” and “Frame + Print” options if you collaborate with a photographer.
Tourist markets
- Pre-load frames with local postcards, prints or mini maps so they become “instant souvenirs.”
- Label them as ready-to-gift keepsakes. Many tourists want quick, grab-and-go items.
Online shops and marketplaces
- List size, wood species and finish as options.
- Use lifestyle photos of frames on walls, shelves and desks, especially gallery wall frame sets.
- Clearly state what is included: glass, backing, hanging hardware and packaging.
- Offer made-to-order frames with a clear production and shipping time.
Wholesale and partnerships
- Approach photographers, galleries and print shops.
- Show a small sample line and offer wholesale pricing (for example, 40% off retail for bulk orders of 5+ frames of each size).
- Match frame colors/styles to their brand (all black, all rustic, etc.) to make the decision easy.
All of this turns simple build steps into a real-world system for selling your frames consistently.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Visible miter gaps
Check your 45° setting often and use a sharp, fine-tooth blade. Always dry-fit before glue.
Skipping rabbet pre-finish
Unfinished wood inside the rabbet attracts dust and fingerprints that will show through the glass. Seal it early.
Low-quality glazing
Cheap acrylic scratches or yellows easily. If you use acrylic, choose a decent thickness and leave the protective film on until the end.
Wrong hardware
- Small frames: use a simple sawtooth hanger (wire often makes them tilt).
- Large frames: always use two anchor points (D-rings and wire), not a single hanger.
Rushing the finish
Incomplete sanding or uneven stain instantly makes a frame look amateur. Take time to sand properly and apply finish in thin, even coats.
Poor shipping protection
Use corner protectors, bubble wrap or foam around all sides, and a sturdy box. A broken frame costs more in time, money and reviews than proper packing supplies.
Upgrades and Variations to Raise Value
Gallery wall kits
Sell curated sets such as two 5×7, two 8×10 and one 11×14 as ready-made gallery wall frame sets.
Mat upgrades
Include a simple white mat by default and offer colored or double mats for an extra fee.
Engraving or personalization
Add names, quotes, dates or coordinates on the bottom rail. Small details like this can add significant perceived value.
Seasonal collections
Create limited holiday designs (Christmas colors, spring pastels, autumn tones). Seasonal colors and short runs create urgency.
Premium limited editions
Use highly figured or exotic woods for short-run “limited edition” series. Price these 2–3× your standard line.
Quick Safety Notes
Dust control
Wear a mask or respirator when sanding hardwoods and use dust collection if possible.
Handling glass
Always wear gloves and safety glasses when cutting or placing glass. Store glass vertically in a padded rack.
Oil finishes and rags
Dispose of oil- or polyurethane-soaked rags properly. Spread them flat to dry or seal them in a metal container. Wadded rags can self-ignite.
FAQs: DIY Picture Frames That Sell
What picture frame sizes sell best at craft shows?
The usual sweet spot is 5×7 and 8×10. They’re affordable and work for most photos and wall spaces. Larger frames (11×14, 16×20) create visual impact and appeal to buyers looking for statement pieces. Make sure you stock multiple 5×7 and 8×10 frames so you don’t run out early.
Is it cheaper to make frames or buy them?
A single store-bought frame can look cheaper, but once you batch-produce, buy materials in bulk and factor in your labor, making your own frames is far more profitable. Your craftsmanship and ability to customize also let you charge a premium price.
What wood species are best for picture frames?
For a high-end line, use hardwoods like maple, walnut, cherry or oak. For painted or budget frames, pine and poplar are ideal. Reclaimed barn wood is excellent for rustic styles and appeals to eco-conscious buyers. These are widely seen as the best wood for picture frames for most DIY sellers.
Should I use glass or acrylic?
For local markets and craft fairs, real glass feels more premium and works well. For shipping and online sales, acrylic is usually safer because it’s lighter and shatter-resistant. Whatever you choose, clearly state it in your product descriptions.
How many frames should I bring to a show?
Aim for around 30–50 frames if space and budget allow. Include several of each popular size (4×6, 5×7, 8×10, 11×14) plus a few large anchors (16×20 or 20×24) for impact. Offer a mix of woods and finishes, but keep plenty of your top-selling sizes and styles on hand.
Use this article as both a practical, step-by-step guide to building wooden frames and a blueprint for growing a profitable picture frame business. With repeatable systems, clear instructions and smart styling ideas, your frames can compete with the top tutorials people find when they search for standard picture frame sizes online.
Best wishes,
Alexander.
